Surfing???????

ok so how does surfing relate to freefall, force, air resistance, and friction?





please have good answers my cousin has a physics project due in 2 weeks and needs help!|||It doesn't. There is a linear force moving the wave towards the beach, and I think the surface also has some angular momentum, but that's not too important. Boards are designed to have low resistance, (friction), so they glide over the wave, so while the momentum of the wave moves the board forward, it is not hindered by still water in front of it. If the surfer is actually ON the wave, he will be facing down a bit so there will be a component of his weight acting to push him forward, as you can model him as a ball rolling down a slope, in an incredibly approximated way...





I would say there is negligible air resistance, and freefall has absolutely nothing to with this. Random factoid: humans fall at around 120mph in freefall when skydiving.